Hey there!

This is a wombo-combo of all the secrets i've learned over the years. Most big clans hide this info, gatekeep it, since they want their crew to have an edge in comp. Screw that. Lot of this is copy + pasted, so please ignore any grammatical errors, did my best. Mostly just making so i don't have to re-type it when i want to show someone how to tune. This game is a ton of fun, and if we want to keep it alive, we gotta be better as experienced players. Teach new people, don't taunt em. Unless they're in pzy, then taunt em. Those guys are losers. Anyway, hope this helps!

First off, get kino! With ksl, a mod manager, you can do just about anything. From fpv drones that can be seen by other people, to waypoints you can tele to, to save-able and send-able tunes, liveries, and maps, its definitely worth the 5 minutes it takes to set up. Completely free to use, only a couple extra features if you buy, which if you do, is only $1. Anyway, on to tuning!

Prep
First things first, buy a car, choose a body kit. Yes, they change how the car drives. Choose wisely lol. Before modding, i always go to kino, go to tune, go to weight and distribution, then reduce the weight as much as itll let me, take note of the weight, thatll be used for later. Then, in the same tune menu, go to swaps, transmission, and put on the HGT Precision Transmission, then the 4 speed custom version. All the nerds use that one, seems to be fastest, bogs the least. Then, once thats done, back out of kino, head to garage, go to mods/swaps, get the ultimate package, then make your way over to dynostand. Now for the real tuning.

Suspension>Stiffness
First do spring stiffness. Smoother the track, stiffer it can be. The more bumps/things that'll upset the car, softer it should be. Some cars also do better with different suspensions, definitely worth messing around with if you like a car.
On all tunes, stiffness in front should be 110-270, stiffness in the rear should be 75-150.
For cars weight 900-1099, the front axis dampers from top down should be 1250, 16500, 2250, 17500.
The back axis is 500, 13500, 1250, 14500.
For cars weight 1100-1249, the front axis dampers from top down should be 2000, 17250, 3000, 18250.
The back axis is 1000, 14250, 2000, 15250.
For cars weight 1250-1299, the front axis dampers from top down should be 2250, 17500, 3250, 18500.
The back axis is 1250, 14500, 2250, 15500.
If you're using the weight reduction in kino>tune, that should be all you need. If, for some reason, you want heavier, message me, and i can send you the rest of the numbers.
Then set your spring length to whatever height you like visually, its usually better to have the rear a little lower, helps the car to stay at angle/sideways. I also prefer to have my front a little high, you want the front suspension working as good as possible.

Suspension>Alignment
Camber front, -6 to -8. I always use -6, but it can be good to mess with.
Camber rear, +0.25 to +0.75. The car squats when you're on throttle, this makes it so when it squats, rear tires make maximum contact.
Toe front, -1. If you want more grip in the front, but less angle/less stability in drift, you can run positive as well.
Toe rear, +1. Another little secret from the big boys. Gives you that little extra oomf.
Steering axis offset and kingpin angle inclination both dont work as intended, recommend putting both to 0.
Max steering angle, can be preference, i like 62/63, but 65 is definitely fastest. Less scrubbing in the front means more energy going forward.
Ackerman angle, 100 is fastest, for sure, but its okay to work up to it. Lot of people run 0 to start, work their way there. If you're keyboard mouse, 22 is a sweet spot, so is 30/33. If your car wants to straighten in turns, raise it!
Caster, 6-8. Mess with it, anywhere in that range is good.

Wheels
Rim diameter, 18-20 depending on size of car/feel. Some people prefer different things, even 17s. I usually go 19.
Tire width, i like 285 front, 300 rear. Works well on most cars. If you want to be slower, i drop both to 265s/285s.
Pressure, 113 front, 70 rear. There is no reason to use anything other than 70. Just the fastest.
Adhesion, always 100.
Wheelbase, i like some poke past fender in the front, and the rear tucked in a bit. Usually front being wider than rear makes car more stable in drift.
Tyre profile, 35-40. 40 is fastest, but 35 feels good too. Usually run 35s on smaller cars ie miata/86.

Brakes
Brake torque, 1000-3000 N/m, lower the better in my opinion. Overbraking can make it hard to stay on the person you're chasing, you find yourself being right there, but always playing catch up. Might be overbraking, give it a shot!
Front brake bias, 70-100, i use 75/80. Helps you position yourself in drift while not effecting angle in bad ways.
ABS, on is usually best, I use off. Im also keyboard mouse, so maybe thats just me. Use whatever you're comfortable with.
Launch control, idk wtf this is. Can someone tell me?

Engine
Yes, yes, and everything all the way up, except for max torque.
Max torque rpm is best set on lowest, is fastest overall. If you're kbm, or low on power/big wheel, can also be good to use max number possible. Up to you. See how it feels.

Transmission,
As stated in prep, use the kino transmission. Its just better.
Dif type, viscous limited slip
Dif locking ratio, 20-60 depending on your horsepower. I almost always use 44, idk why.

Now you're ready to shred! Bookmark this, favorite, show it to every newbie you see potential in. Who knows, in a week they could be doorin ya, with a lil help that is ;)
Hope ya like!
-B2B